Chuck Bower: 24/22, 8/3.Isn't this just the last problem, a couple of rolls later? How'd we do?I like 24/17, but see Kit didn't list that. The 5 die looks awkward nomatter how we play this. The choices are: give up asset-A, themidpoint; or give up asset-B, the 9-point; or give up neither asset byplaying either 8/1* or 8/3, 24/22.
As in problem 7, I have an aversion for breaking up a nice prime. Andgiving up the midpoint with two checkers still deep in opp's board doesn'tfeel right either. So it's down to pure (8/3, 24/22) vs. impure (8/1*);the seventies vs. the nineties.
Not counting the loose hits with 51 and 52, 8/3 leaves 'only' 15 shots,with 33 a crusher and 22 pretty nice as well. 8/1* results in no crushers,but a checker which is inconsistently placed to complement the alreadyexisting prime. In fact, covering it is probably going to mean breakingthe prime. And if we're having mixed feelings (that is, maybe we'd ratherhave the checker sent back than left as a continuing headache on our acepoint) then maybe we should take the extra risk and leave it where it will do the most good--on the 3-point.
The kicker for leaving the blot on the 3-point is that the back checkersare (relatively safely) split which may ease timing problems and/or allowfor an advanced anchor. Maybe my ongoing re-readings of Backgammon Times (early 1980's periodical) is having an adverse affect, but I'm going forthe pure play: 8/3, 24/22.
Malcolm Davis: 8/1*.
Probably wrong, but I just can't resist. I really don't want to break my prime, and24/22, 13/8seems a little too passive. I have less confidence in my answers this time than usual.Maybe the problems are harder, or maybe it is just because I have been losing. However, if my opponent fans, or doesn't hit or bring in 2 checkers, I like my hand. Otherwise, I will just have to deal with it.