117
money game
Blue
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Problem 1
| 81 117 | White money game Blue |
Alan Alsop: B/24*, 13/10.
Gammons are evident whatever is done. Blue needs to contain Whites man in his homeboard. Playing safe 8/7, 8/6 is not helping. Slotting on the 2 or 4 point strips the available covering rolls. 13/10 threatens and brings ammunition down to attack the 4 point, also to make the 10 point. If White dances, even more interesting. More options but still a riskyplay.
Chuck Bower: B/24*, 13/12(2), 3/2.
Toughest problem of the set. Blue is in a bad way, behind a 6-prime, and avoiding the gammon seems to be of concern. Still, wins are worth twice as much as gammon losses, and it's not clear that attempting to avoid the gammon will be successful, anyway. I see two ways that Blue can win: trap one or two White checkers and force him to break the prime prematurely, or establish the 24-point and wait it out.
I don't think Blue can afford to break the back of the prime. 13/10 gives Blue chances to send a second White back, but leaves 11 shots which look pretty costly, particularly because if hit, timing is lost for the subsequent 24-point game. The checker on the 5-point belongs on the 4-point, but how will Blue cover it? The checker on the 3-point belongs on the 2-point, or maybe on the 24-point! If that checker is hit, White's back checker will be trapped, so the two way chances of winning will still be intact. And if Whiteenters on Blue's 1-point, sixes efficiently roll the prime forward, creating another builder for the 4-point.
I have a tendency to try and go for broke in these kinds of positions with something like 5/4, but I think the quiet, patient play often is the prudent choice. I'm going with B/24*, 13/12(2), 3/2.
Steve Clark: B/24*, 13/12(2), 5/4.
It seems to me that we have enough of a prime to make some effort to tryand win the game. Since the only safe plays involve busting the primeto some degree, I think we will have to take some risk. As White doesnot have too many spare checkers near his home board, we will have areasonable chance to make an anchor whenever we get hit.
From these conclusions, the play that immediately comes to mind is B-24,13-12(2), 5-4. This is a very direct play. We try to be reasonablysafe while attempting to build the prime which will really give us achance to win. In fact no other play really comes to mind as beingparticularly close.
Malcolm Davis: B/24*, 13/12(2), 5/4.
Trying to win the game, somehow. May very well get gammoned with a lessagressive play, anyway. I will play with one blot and hope to make the one-point if I get hit.If missed, endeavor to make the four-point.
Doug Doub: B/24*, 8/7, 8/6.
Slotting the 5pt makes the strongest effort towin the game, and would certainly be best at many match scores. However,the number of gammons surrendered would go up quite a bit with that play,and we still have worthwhile winning chances after breaking the 8pt, so Ichoose not to offer any more blots than necessary.
George Klitsas: B/24*, 8/7, 8/6.
Three moves are conceivable here, namely B/24* 13/12(2) 5/4, B/24* 13/12(2) 7/6 and B/24* 8/7 8/6.The first one lacks both flexibility (consider a sequence like White 4-2 played B/21* 10/8 , Blue 1-5 played B/24 ? ) and safety - it's true that if Blue's slot on the four point is hit and Blue anchors quickly on White's ace point, this ace-point game will tend to be well timed , but Blue is not a favorite to anchor and his gammon count is high enough (the opposite side of the coin "well timed ace-point game") for him to get gammoned quite often in that case. It's a close call between the other two candidates, the more flexible B/24* 13/12(2) 7/6 ,which retains four builders for the crucial four point but gives White six immediate shots from the bar and the absolutely safe B/24* 8/7 8/6. I am not at all sure but I slightly prefer the super safe 8/7 8/6 over 13/12(2) 7/6 - it's amazing and much higher than one thinks (almost 50% I guess) the probability of Blue finding himself in a prime vs prime game starting from the innocent-looking position resulting after B/24* 8/7 8/6.
Laila Leonhardt: B/24*, 13/10.
Blue is behind a 6 point prime with no hope of escaping unless he can forceWhite into breaking the prime. Blue will need to make sure that White staysbehind the prime on Blues table, and to shorten the playable pips White hasbefore busting his prime. If White does not hit then Blue should try to pickup the blot on the 9-point or make the 4-point. Playing from 13 to 10 makesa duplication of numbers that White needs to enter from the bar.
Rob Maier: B/24*, 13/12(2), 5/4.
I hesitate even turning in this list of problems, as I would not be shocked if I were wrong on all of them. I suppose the show must go on. My first reaction here is just to try and save the gammon. Upon some reflection, I decided that White's gammon chances were pretty high to begin with, and that trying to win didn't necessarily make them that much higher. While the timing is against us, we do have some possibilities of winning a priming battle. Perhaps we can complete the prime and get hit, staying on the roof for a spell. Perhaps we can trap both White blots and even up the timing. The scenario that swings it is what happens when Blue gets hit. If Blue gets two checkers closed out, he will not be happy, but sometimes he anchors instead. If he anchors, his winning chances go up, and the gammon chances go down. If the checkers get closed out, the gammon chances go very high, but again, I think they are pretty high to begin with.
Snowie: B/24*, 8/7, 8/6.
Let's be realistic. We simply aren't going to be able to hold the eightpoint and win the priming battle that way. We need to make the four point,and we also don't want a second checker sent back since that ups the gammondanger considerably. My play leaves me the best chance to make the fourpoint with minimal risk of a disaster.
Kit Woolsey: B/24*, 13/12(2), 3/2.
The spare checker on the three point doesn't belong there, so let's put iton the two point where it does belong. I can't afford to get hit in theoutfield. My outfield point is my best chance to retain some timing. Slottingthe four point is too big, and giving up the eight point throws away too manywinning chances.
Chris Yep: B/24*, 8/7, 8/6.
Blue is in a difficult position. To win he must contain White's checker long enough to force White to break his prime. At the same time, since White has a better board he may opt to attack Blue. If White picks up another checker and closes two men out with Blue still having men in the outfield, White will be a favorite to win a gammon. 13/12 13/11 and 13/10 look too dangerous. On the other hand, 5/4(3) looks too passive. It's usually not good to break a prime in the middle. If White makes it to Blue's 5 point, Blue will only have a stripped 3-prime left to block White. I prefer b/24 8/7 8/6. It leaves no blots and gives Blue a flexible position with 3 builders for the 4 point and 4 builders for the 2 point. The loss of the 8 point is unfortunate. However, I believe the four 13/12(2) moves are worse. For example, 8/7 provides the same number of builders for the 2 and 4 points. However, it gives White 3 shots. It does slot the 8 point, but even then there is some duplication of 4s next turn (to cover and to make the 4 point). Furthermore, Blue often has to worry about safetying the blot next turn instead of strengthening his prime. 7/6 has the same flaw, but even worse. White has more immediate shot numbers and Blue is more likely to have to worry about safetying next turn. 5/4 and 3/2 are similar. Both give White a gammonish direct shot. If missed, Blue sometimes has to break the 8 point anyway to cover. Considering all the candidates, I like b/24 8/7 8/6.
Summary: On a very difficult play, the panel narrowly voted to give up on part ofthe blockade and minimize blots rather than hold everything and go for themiracle. This conservative approach has a lot of appeal.
Play Votes ScoreB/24*, 8/7, 8/6 4 100B/24*, 13/12(2), 5/4 3 90B/24*, 13/12(2), 3/2 2 80B/24*, 13/10 2 80B/24*, 13/12, 13/11 0 40B/24*, 13/12(2), 8/7 0 40B/24*, 13/12(2), 7/6 0 40B/24*, 5/4(3) 0 40
Problem 2
| 138 172 | White money game Blue |
Alan Alsop: 13/7(2).
Choices? Behind in race, so running is not an option. Whites position and men distribution poor. Looking to block and contain last man. Blue controls White's outfield so there is a good chance of picking up another blot.
Chuck Bower: 8/5(2), 6/3(2).
Blue already has a strong defense. This rolls delivers instant offense. 8/5(2), 6/3(2) gives Blue the better home board. White is a bit stripped/stacked and avoiding leaving shots isn't going to be easy. If White hits Blue's blot on the 8-point, little harm results. Blue gains timing and probably gets quite a few return shots. I think making two home board pointsis the pressure play--the play White doesn't want to see Blue make.
Steve Clark: 13/7(2).
We are well behind in the race and our opponent is not particularly wellorganized. From this we can conclude that we should try to retaincontact so that we can hit his loose blots as he tries to escape.Second, we should try to build points which might block White's checkeron our 2 point. Furthermore we could use inside points even to theextent of taking some risk to make them.
We could build the 5 and 3 points. This gets our board together whileleaving one blot. 13-7(2) builds 4 parts of a prime. 10-4(2) starts avery nice block while leaving no return hits. Other plays such as107(2), 6-3(2) have similar merits. In fact it is quite hard to chooseamong them. In the end I will go for 13-7(2). It does not make anyinner board points, which is a big negative, but it does leave greatpotential for making the in the next roll or two. This is not a strongpreference as I regard the alternatives as almost equally attractive.
Malcolm Davis: 13/7(2).
Looks natural. Almost made two inner-board points. Will be patient. Preserve someracing equity.
Doug Doub: 8/5(2), 6/3(2).
Lots of choices. Making the bar point would giveus the most compact offensive structure, and I like advancing those two menon White's bar point, so that I don't have so many back men covering thesame territory. However, I cannot resist making two excellent inner boardpoints, even if it does offer a shot and leave me a bit strung out. Down 22pips plus the roll, getting hit is no big deal. With three of my men stillaiming directly at the 4pt, I have a very reasonable chance of building avery potent inner board in just another couple of rolls. My play might showa bit of impatience, but it looks good to me.
George Klitsas: 8/5(2), 6/3(2).
Obviously 8/5(2) is a must making the best point in the board. For the rest of the move, I much prefer 6/3(2) , making a third inner point, to the more positional 10/7(2). So my complete solution is 8/5(2) 6/3(2). Blue is already behind in the race and must not worry too much about leaving a blot in a position that has so much contact that it's very unlikely that it will be decided by the pip count alone.
Laila Leonhardt: 18/15(2), 10/7(2).
Blue is behind in the race, and should try to keep control over as of theboard as possible while trying to catch another of White's checkers orsuccessfully prime the one in the home board.
Rob Maier: 10/4(2).
The checkers on the ten point are not in a particularly useful spot. Moving them to the bar for the first two threes is pretty easy. After that, it gets a little murky. 18/15(2) seems like a good idea, posting 6-away from White's rearmost point. However, it is not clear that this is the best strategy for the future. 6/3(2) makes a new point and a broken 4-prime, but the position seems pretty disjointed. Making the four point is the less obvious alternative. Unmaking the bar seems like it lets White escape, but White is not really trapped regardless. White can play behind us next roll if he cannot get out, and we will be forced to break something, probably not profitably. Making the four point gives us a start on our board, making a better point than the three point. Also, the position is easier to improve after making the four point.
Snowie: 13/7(2).
I don't need to hold the midpoint when I own the enemy bar point, and mycheckers on the ten point put pressure on White's back anchor so he can'tbreak it easily. My play is pure, preparing to make the important fiveand four points next turn as well as keeping White's back checker hemmed in.
Kit Woolsey: 10/7(2), 6/3(2).
I am way behind in the race, so I'm not touching the back checkers. The bestapproach seems to be to put as much pressure on White's lone back checker aspossible, preparing the way for a possible blitz. If that checker gets away,I want as many outposts on White's side of the board as I can have.
Chris Yep: 8/5(2), 6/3(2).
Because this game is likely to continue for a long time and also because White's board is already stronger than Blue's, Blue needs an inner board anchor. For this reason I reject 21/15(2). Beyond this, since the game figures to last a long time, inner board points are more valuable than usual. Both sides will likely spend significant time on the bar. Each additional inner board point will create problems for White for the entire game. Even a slightly stronger board will, over the course of a long game, result in White spending significantly more time on the bar. While I certainly respect the more positional blocking moves, 8/5(2) 6/3(2) jumps out at me as Blue's best move.
Summary: The two top vote-getters were quite different plays. One conecntratedon the outfield control, while the other put full emphasis on building thestrong inner board. It is not at all clear which approach is better.
Play Votes Score8/5(2), 6/3(2) 4 10013/7(2) 4 9018/15(2), 10/7(2) 1 6010/7(2), 6/3(2) 1 6010/4(2) 1 6021/15(2) 0 4018/15(2), 6/3(2) 0 4010/7(2), 8/5(2) 0 40
Problem 3
| 135 145 | White money game Blue |
Alan Alsop: 13/9, 13/7.
It's an even running game. Blue has an advanced anchor. To hit White's blot will make Blue very vunerable to attack and weaken Blue's position. White has to escape which must be prevented by priming or hitting. Bring down both men from the 13 point. With the 5 point Blue can be aggessive by slotting if necessary.
Chuck Bower: 20/16*, 9/3*.
It seems Blue can't afford to let White have a chance to add a fifth point inhis prime. Continuing (20/16*/10) leaves a huge number of return shots (I only see 66 and 55 that don't return-hit). Hitting twice is no guarantee but it throws White off balance sufficiently to give Blue a good chance of takingsolid control of the game.
Steve Clark: 13/9, 13/7.
I don't really see much else than 13-9, 13-7. Whenever we can hit aloose blot and escape a checker, we must take a close look at such aplay. But 20-16-10 leaves too many return shots to be reallyattractive. White would be well poised to hit me somewhere. Theoutside prime I would be building with that play is not as valuable asit might appear. Really 13-9, 13-7 seems to be it.
Malcolm Davis: 20/16*, 16/10.
Almost brought two down, but remembered one of my old rules "When in doubt, hit!"
Doug Doub: 13/9, 13/7.
I see two major candidates here. Slash away with20-16*, 9-3* or quietly build with 13-7, 13-9. The double hit could easilywork out well, but it surrenders our anchor and initiates a blot hittingcontest when our opponent has a stronger board than we do. Those four blotslying around the board would require at least a couple of rolls to clean up.On the other hand, 13-7, 13-9 gives us a nice solid position with a nearlyeven race. It is no big deal if White covers his 9pt, since he will not beable to hold it all that long. White has only 8 numbers to escape, and allof them would still give us a direct shot at that blot on his 9pt. I thinkthat we can afford to wait a turn before working on our inner board here.
George Klitsas: 20/16*, 16/10.
Here, contrary to problem 3 above, the race is close and if Blue hits (20/16*) White's blot, he will be ahead. I believe he should do so, continuing and making the 10 point with the six (20/16*/10) despite the risks involved. My second choice would be 13/7 13/9. Hitting two (20/16* 9/3*) is losing backgammon and the sign of a weak player.
Laila Leonhardt: 20/16*, 9/3*.
Money game and no cube has been turned, so no gammons can be lost yet. Thisis a good opportunity for the aggressive play of hitting 2 checkers leaving4 blots in a vulnerable but flexible position.White still only has a 2-point board and if Blue gets hit, the otherwisedancing four will make the 16-point.
Rob Maier: 20/16*, 16/10.
The hits just keep on coming. Hitting must be right, since by staying back we could wind up behind a broken five prime. After the hit, I think we should make the ten-point. Not only is this point an asset, but it also protects us if we are hit next roll, since we will have only two blots instead of four.
Snowie: 13/9, 13/7.
White has the bigger board, so I don't want to hit and start a free-for-all.If I can contain White's lone back checker I will be in fine shape, and evenif that checker wriggles out I'll be okay as long as I hold my anchor. Myplay hems White in, leaves almost nothing for White to shoot at, and preparesto build up my board next turn.
Kit Woolsey: 20/16*, 16/10.
Getting that second checker of his sent back looks too important to pass up,even if it means giving up the anchor. At least White's sixes are duplicated,and if he rolls badly I have a shot at completing a solid five-prime.
Chris Yep: 13/9, 13/7.
White has a better board and is one roll away from a solid 5-prime if Blue breaks his anchor. Blue's 20-point anchor is the strength of his position. I don't think he should break it to hit. Of the other moves, 13/9 10/4 is too loose. The duplication of 1s is nice, but even next turn he usually won't be able to safety both blots without leaving a new blot in the middle of his stripped outside prime. Rolling the prime forward will be awkward as well. 9/3* 7/3 looks reasonable, but the poor outfield structure, loss of the bar point and 9 immediate shots worries me. I prefer 13/9 13/7 which only leaves 4 shots and leaves Blue with a solid 4-prime with spares on the 6, 7 and 10 points well positioned to improve to a 5-prime or to attack next turn with most dice rolls.
Summary: A fascinating problem, with the hitting vs. the take it slowapproaches leading to widely different positions. We have all been learninghow important the race is, but perhaps this time the quiet approach is better.
Play Votes Score13/9, 13/7 5 10020/16*, 16/10 4 9020/16*, 9/3* 2 7013/9, 10/4 0 409/3*, 7/3 0 40
Problem 4
| 110 158 | White money game Blue |
Alan Alsop: 22/18, 8/3*.
Blue has run out of men to play the forward game. Although stopping White's escape is a strong preference with the 5, as he needs to escape. Blue could make the 3 point or move the man off the 23 point to the 14 point leaving 6's for White to point, hit or run. As escaping is important to White's timing, movement and structure I prefer the above move.
Chuck Bower: 22/18, 8/3*.
8/3* is screaming at me as half the roll. What else is that spare on the 8-point for, and knocking opp back from the edge of the prime is thematic. Now the decision is whether to cover (breaking the solid 5-prime) or bring a back checker forward.
Until Blue gets some help from the northern front, the BEST prime he can have is a solid 5-pointer. So covering gives White six return hits and leaves Bluehoping for a 1 next roll just to rebuild the solid 5-prime. On the other sideof the board, White is fairly well positioned given that sixes won't play andhis builders are in decent position to point on Blue's head. Playing 22/18with White on the bar at least minimizes those chances for this roll. Withthree or more checkers back, playing the remaining checkers with maximalefficiency is usually called for. Timing is key in this position (as in allbackgamish positions). A solid 5-prime is the way to force White to crunch.8/3*, 22/18 is my choice.
Steve Clark: 22/18, 8/3*.
I am playing 8-3 in any event. The prime principles of primes is toknock your opponent away from the front of your prime (beautifulalliteration). The second prime principle of primes is to avoid beingprimed by the opponent. I guess we have to play 22-18 also.
I always have trouble judging whether to go for the gammon with 8-3,7-3, but here I am fairly confident. With 4 men stuck deep in hisboard, we have to start getting them out before we roll some disgustingdouble and have to completely crunch our board. 8-3, 22-18 looks rightto me.
Malcolm Davis: 23/14.
Looks pretty good. Tempting to hit, or make the 3-point. I will keeep my prime and tryto make it stand up.
Doug Doub: 23/14.
Hitting at the edge of our prime is the natural play here,but I do not think that it is correct. The trouble is that we would be sofar away from having a man in place to cover the 3pt. Additionally, Whiteis close to cracking his offensive board, and he has TWO men behind our 5 ina row. On average, it will take him about eight rolls to get both of themout, and we have a decent chance of sending another one back there.
Running off of the deuce point anchor is stronger than 22-13 for a coupleof reasons. The 22pt is a stronger anchor, and keeping it would force Whiteto bury a man on his ace point should he roll a five. Additionally, Whitewill want to use his 6's to leap our prime, so our chances of gettingattacked successfully on the deuce point are much lower.
Barclay Cooke was fond of positions where you could sit back and watchyour opponent self-destruct. It looks like the winning approach in thisproblem.
George Klitsas: 23/14.
Blue should go quiet here, I believe (23/14). If White does not roll a six and then a two and another six, his position will collapse. The blot Blue is leaving on White's two point is partially immune (if this can be said!) due to the duplication of sixes.
Laila Leonhardt: 8/3*, 7/3.
Moving of the 23 or 24 point would leave Blue in a position where Whitecould turn the game around and likely win a gammon.Making the 3-point has more options for Blue.White could dance and Blue complete the prime with an ace next roll orcreate builders for further attack on White.In some scenarios 6/36 White will enter and hit Blue's checker, but Blue willstill be in the game holding a basically unprimed 2-3 back game with chancesto pick up White when he tries to come around.So don't give up any game plan yet, but play both horses.
Rob Maier: 23/14.
Breaking the 22-point is not an option. The last thing we want to do is turn White's disastrous fives into productive numbers. If White is able to run, we have some coverage, and if not, his position will collapse. By just running from the back, we force White to do quite a bit in order to win the game. Just running to the bar gives White some extra chances, and making the three-point forces Blue to perform instead of White.
Snowie: 23/14.
Hitting loose is too big -- White has the stronger inner board. Outfieldcontrol is very important. If White pops a checker out, I want to be ableto send that checker back. Also by holding the anchor on the 22 point I makeWhite's fives awful.
Kit Woolsey: 22/18, 8/3*.
The five-prime stays, that's for sure. If I can keep White off the edge ofthe prime, I will have a good chance to force him to crunch. I retain oneanchor in his board to guard against an attack. It is unlikely he will beable to accomplish both an attack and an escape of both back checkers.
Chris Yep: 22/18, 8/3*.
First, let's compare 23/14 to 22/13. 23/14 duplicates 6s while 22/13 duplicates 2s. Probably the duplication of 6s is more significant. A 6 buys White 15 spare pips, so is very valuable to him. For example if Blue plays 23/14, White should definitely play 22/16 5/2* (instead of 8/2* 5/2) with a 6-3 and 22/16 6/2* (instead of 22/12) with a 6-4. On the other hand, if Blue plays 22/13, White should definitely point on Blue's head with a 3-2 and 5-2 instead of using the 2 to play 24/22. For this reason, I prefer 23/14 to 22/13 since it gives White one fewer builder with which to hit effectively. Among the other three moves, 23/18 8/4 has to be the worst. Not only doesn't it escape one man completely into the outfield, but it doesn't do much on the other side of the board. Clearly 23/14 or one of the 8/3* plays must be better. If we could be sure that Blue's gammon danger was low, then 22/18 8/3*, keeping the solid 5-prime, looks better than both 8/3* 7/3 and 23/14. In fact, Blue's gammon danger probably is still relatively low after 22/18 8/3*. On White's next roll there is a lot of duplication of 1s, 2s, and 3s. Furthermore, Blue still has an anchor and White still has to get 2 men over a solid 5-prime. Even if White does all this, he probably has to hit at least two checkers and close his 3 point to have decent gammon chances. My guess is that compared to 23/14 and 8/3* 7/3, 22/18 8/3* gives Blue both more wins and more gammon losses, perhaps a few percent more of each (but with a gammon price of 0.5 in money play, in some sense Blue gets 2:1 odds on going for the win vs. worrying about getting gammoned). In particular, I believe that Blue's gammon danger is less than it might initially appear to be. Thus, I like the aggressive 22/18 8/3*.
Summary: Hitting White off the edge of the prime seems so natural.But is it right here, with the lack of ammunition? Very unclear.
Play Votes Score22/18, 8/3* 5 10023/14 5 908/3*, 7/3 1 6023/18, 8/4 0 4022/13 0 40
Problem 5
| 153 143 | White money game Blue |
Alan Alsop: 20/16, 13/11.
Blue is ahead in the race. Although White has two men back, attacking on the 5 point to unstack the 6 and 8 point is an obvious option for White. Breaking the 4 point prime to make the 4 point leaving shots from the back men is unnecessary. A steady play of moving into the outerboard and bring builders down is my play.
Chuck Bower: 20/16, 13/11.
Blue has several targets and White's biggest prize would be to hit loose (andcover) on his 5-point. That checker isn't doing Blue any good there so allcandidates should involve moving it.
If Blue were to slot the 9-point (20/18, 13/9), THAT blot would then become akey target since White would accomplish several good things (gaining in therace, taking half of Blue's roll, escaping a checker, controlling Blue'soutfield) with 15/36 rolls. That is just too big of a risk here.
Blue's checker on the 10-point is a good builder for the 10-, 9-, and especially the the 4-point and is only vulnerable to 4/36 hits. Now we've pretty much narrowed our choices down to 20/16, 18/16; 20/14; or 20/16, 13/11. The lone checker on the 13-point is a liability and why leave Blue so many double hits? 20/16, 13/11 is the sole survivor.
Steve Clark: 13/7.
13-7 immediately comes to mind. This play provides maximum builders forthe 4 point consistent with safety. It is particularly worthwhile tohave a builder on the 10 point. A builder at this distance maximizesbuilding potential while minimizing risk.
Other plays might come out better in a rollout but not by much. Itmight be correct to remove the blot from the 20 point with a play suchas 20-18, 13-9 or 20-16, 13-11, but none of these can be a big winnerover 13-7, and all of them might be noticably worse.
Malcolm Davis: 20/18, 13/9.
Tough play! If I get away with this, I am in pretty good shape. Would not makethe 16-point in a million years. 20/16, 13/11 is tempting, but will stick with my original play.
Doug Doub: 20/16, 13/11.
There are a number of reasonable choices here.13-7, and 20-18, 13-9 are possibilities. However, I would rather not getattacked on White's 5pt, and although 20-18, 13-9 has a big upside when itworks, we have a useful racing lead and would surrender a great deal of oneof White's men were able to escape with a hit. While we would definitelynot like getting hit, White does not have enough offense to make meseriously consider stacking a fifth man on our 6pt to reduce our blot count.20-16, 13-11 looks like the right combination of safety and aggression.
George Klitsas: 13/7.
The obvious choice is 13/7 creating another builder for the crucial four point. White will think twice before hitting loose on his five point (barring the five jokers).
Laila Leonhardt: 13/7.
Blue needs builders to optimize the flexibility in the attack if White failsto anchor.
Rob Maier: 20/16, 10/8.
Another fun position. Our checker on the twenty point seems to be in a bad place. If we just bring it out to the bar, the fours are all unattractive. Bringing it out to the sixteen point puts it in a position to cover part of the outfield. Playing 10/8 with the two brings another builder in range of White's back checkers should we wish to attack, and also cleans up one blot. Although we have two blots for White to shoot at, hitting one often leaves us many return shots, and the ace shot is severely duplicated. The spare checker on the eight-point looks nice to me as well, and if I am being blinded by aesthetics, so be it.
Snowie: 20/16, 13/11.
Everybody out into the outfield. My play gives me three builders for thevital nine point, and gets the back checker away from the five point whereWhite would love to attack. White can flail away all he wants in the outfield.That won't help him too much.
Kit Woolsey: 13/7.
This simple play cleans up one of my blots, brings in an important builder,and doesn't leave White too much to shoot at. Other approaches don't appearto accomplish as many good things.
Chris Yep: 20/18, 10/6.
With an advanced anchor, solid 4-prime and a significant racing lead (16 pips with White on roll), it looks right for Blue to consolidate his position. 20/18 10/6 leaves only one blot and the least number of shots by far. Also, if White hits with a 1-x he does so at the expense of not making the 22 point. Although Blue has a slightly inflexible position, he can still use his checkers to attack White's split back men. In any case, the position after 20/18 10/6 is still reasonably flexible. Blue has a spare on the 18 point and if missed, he can also play with his midpoint checker.
Summary: Once again, a divided panel. The choice is whether to focuson the outfield or on putting pressure on White's back blots. It seemsthematic to me to go for the offense, but perhaps not in this position.
Play Votes Score13/7 4 10020/16, 13/11 4 9020/18, 13/9 1 6020/18, 10/6 1 6020/16, 10/8 1 6020/16, 18/16 0 4020/18, 6/2* 0 40
Problem 6
| 124 136 | White money game Blue |
Alan Alsop: 8/5, 6/4.
White apart from escaping from Blue's home board will unstack his builders on any blot in his home board if allowed. Blues only safe play is the 1 point. This wastes men, strips builders to play with. Trying to put men where they belong and most effective . The above move creates a chance to prime if missed. If Blue is hit it is not the end of Blue's game.
Chuck Bower: 6/1.
Keeping the prime looks clear. Along with that, Blue needs to remain diverse, especially saving 4's. The checker on the 8-point is the only prime-keeping four, and advancing it to the 4-point now would give White a chance to safely reach the edge of the prime (by hitting). So 6/1 is the play, but should White's blot be picked up in the process? Timing is also delicate for White, and allowing him to use half of his roll to enter doesn't appear to be in Blue's best interest. In addition, 55 is one of White's worst rolls, and that doesn't play at all from the bar. My choice is 6/4/1, not hitting.
Steve Clark: 8/5, 6/4.
In general it is correct to slot the front of the prime rather than tobury a checker. The only reservation is whether there is some tacticalconsideration which would cause me to change my mind. In this positionI cannot find any reason to go against the general rule. I am notgreatly worried about being hit because that is no worse than burying achecker. Nor do I see any particular benefit from hitting ouropponent. If I am not hit but am unable to escape next roll, I will behappy to have a checker on the 4 point. I will play 8-5, 6-4.
Malcolm Davis: 8/5, 6/4.
If I don't get hit, I am im great shape. If I do get hit, I will try to get back inthe outfield with the blot and still be o.k.
Doug Doub: 8/5, 6/4.
White has three men trapped behind 5 in a row, and no menat the edge of the prime. Further, he is running out of time on his side ofthe board. I am happy to slot the next point in line and hope to cover itnext turn. There is a very big upside if it is not hit, and if it does gethit, I can expect to recirculate the man and try again. It would be a shameto give White good fours from the bar, and to deprive him of his turn shouldhe roll 65 or 55.
George Klitsas: 8/5, 6/4.
Another problem in which going quiet (8/5 6/4) looks best. Compared to the inflexible 8/3* , the suggested play leaves a few more shots but in return prepares for a six prime and lets White play his awkward numbers (like 5-5 for example!).
Laila Leonhardt: 8/3*.
The old saying, don't slot a point the opponent desperately needs wouldapply here.Blue does definitely not want to be on the bar with White at the edge of theprime.But it is preferred to take the chance of getting hit, from breaking the5-point prime down to a 4-point prime, allowing White to escape with any 6,or to bury a builder on the ace point
Rob Maier: 8/5, 6/4.
No matter how long I look at these kind of positions, I always end up making the same type of play. Certainly if White doesn't hit, slotting is the best play. The key is that even when he does, it isn't necessarily worse for Blue. Blue could fan, or come in and out, thus gaining timing to wait for White to crash. If we put our checkers where they don't belong to avoid the shots, we are much worse when we try to follow-up if we can not run out next time.
Snowie: 8/5, 6/4.
Purity is everything in priming battles. The four point is next on my list,and this is the way to make it. Even if White hits, he still has a lot ofwork to do.
Kit Woolsey: 8/5, 6/4.
Playing very purely in priming battles is so often the route to take. If Whitemisses the double shot we are in great shape, and if he hits perhaps beingstuck on the bar won't be so bad as we watch White crunch. The other playsshove checkers to the wrong places.
Chris Yep: 8/5, 6/4.
With 6s killed and 16 spare pips on the other side of the board, White may be able to hold his prime for awhile. Because of this, it doesn't look right for Blue to try to dump checkers to the one point, with or without a hit. In fact, hitting anywhere doesn't look right. Of particular importance is that White only has one spare on his 5 point, thus can (usually) only play one 4 without breaking the 5 point. Blue wants White to use his 4s to play 5/1 rather than b/21. 8/5 6/4 might look too aggressive, but making the 4 point either as part of a full 6-prime or as a 5-prime (from the 4 point to the 8 point) is the key to Blue winning this game. Although Blue has a longer prime, White has a better board, killed 6s, and a fair number of spare pips. If Blue leaves with one checker, White will surely attack the remaining checker. Thus it's important for Blue to have a strong prime (preferably a full 6-prime) in place. If White misses, Blue has 17(!) rolls that make the 6-prime. Moreover, of White's 20 hitting numbers, 8 (1-4, 1-5, 2-4, 2-5) give Blue a direct return from the bar. A final factor is that after a passive move like 6/1, White doesn't have to worry too much about Blue's attacking possibilities. For example, White should probably play 23/21 6/1 (instead of 6/1 3/1) with a 5-2.
Summary: Finally some agreement among the panel. The them of keepingpure in a priming battle was the clear choice.
Play Votes Score8/5, 6/4 9 1008/3* 1 606/1 1 606/4, 6/3* 0 406/3*, 3/1 0 40
Problem 7
| 99 41 | White money game Blue |
Alan Alsop: 3/2*, 2/0, 1/0.
Bearing and taking men off is defininatly better for the gammon threat. but which way? 5/2*, 3/2 leaves problems.4/2 leaves less trouble, 3/2*, 2/0, 1/0 better chance of gammons and distribution of men. Gammon chances could be reduced if hit. As White has no home board this is a strong deciding factor in weighing the chances of risk and safe play.
Chuck Bower: 3/2(3)*, 1/0.
Not only is White's board a sieve, but even when he starts the bearoff his 2'sand 4's are going to be almost worthless. Blue can really tee-off for thegammon here.
Usually, hindering White will be Blue's most effective gammon ploy. 5/2*, 3/2both puts a second White checker on the bar and closes another point. The downside is the awkward distribution of spares: two on the ace and especiallythe odd checker on the 5-point. All 6's and 5's (except 61 and 51) plus 44 leave a shot. 17/36 shots is too many.
It seems that any play which doesn't hit just doesn't go far enough to slowWhite's advance. Also, diversifying 5/4 (instead of removing a checker)appears too safe for White's defenseless condition. We're down to 4/2*(2);3/2*(3), 1/0; and 3/2*, 2/0, 1/0. None, one, or two checkers off? Nottaking a single checker off seems too conservative, while ripping twomakes 3's in particular an awkward subsequent number. I'll sacrifice anextra checker off to get the future safety. An old BG saying goes: "the quickest way to fail to win a gammon is to get hit." 3/2*(3), 1/0 provides the best balance among hassling White, taking checkers off, and minimizing future shots.
Steve Clark: 3/2*, 2/0, 1/0.
I definitely want to hit a 2nd checker here. This greatly increases ourchances for a gammon or backgammon. Nor does hitting noticeablydecrease our winning chances. Next I want to play safe while taking abunch of blots off. 4-2(2) gets no one off but is safe. 3-2(3), 1-0 isfairly safe and gets a blot off. 3-0, 1-0 takes off 2 men but is lesssafe. Even so I think the extra risks are justified. When youropponent's defense is porous, extra men off provide a significant safetymargin while increasing the opportunities for gammons. I will go with3-0, 1-0.
Malcolm Davis: 3/2*, 2/0, 1/0.
Trying to insure gammon. Probably not exactly right, but how bad can it be?
Doug Doub: 3/2*, 2/0, 1/0.
With White's board in shambles, our focus should beon bearing off as quickly as possible to maximize our gammon chances. Thehit is very clear, in order to slow White down. Having done so, we want torip off as many as we can. If White's board were a threat, then 4-2*(2),(or possibly 3-2*(3), 1-0) might be appropriate, for safety's sake. Withthe gammon a close issue and White's board in poor shape, we can afford tobe more aggressive about bearing men off.
George Klitsas: 5/4, 3/2*, 2/0.
Only a bot would know the exact solution here. On my own, I think that a play like 5/4 3/2* 2/0 should rank itself among the top choices - a compromise between aggressiveness and safety. Blue must take off at least one checker (since the gammon is a close issue) but not more if this might lead to future jeopardy, despite White's not so menacing board.
Laila Leonhardt: 4/2(2)*.
Gammon looks sure if Blue can avoid getting hit.There are lots of options here and I had a hard time deciding my finalchoice.The reason I picked the switch was; It puts both of Whites checkers on thebar, allows a safer bear off having closed the gap on the 2 point and is nowonly a question of getting the checkers of the 5 point without getting hit.
Rob Maier: 3/2*, 2/0, 1/0.
In this position, I'm usually White in the chouette, waiting five minutes as the gluttonous crew debates endlessly on how to punish me for my stupid take. 4/2*(2) is safest, but the gammon is not yet gin. Yanking a few checkers could make the difference there. So, 3/2*, 2/o for the first three aces. For the last, we might as well take another checker off, as it is not readily obvious to me that playing 5/4 is safer, and the extra checker off could swing the gammon.
Snowie: 3/2*, 2/0, 1/0.
I love getting greedy, especially when my opponent's board looks like swisscheese. I hit and scoop two men off. Looks ideal.
Kit Woolsey: 3/2*, 2/0, 1/0.
We can play very greedily for the gammon, since White has no board. Hittingis a must. My play hit, gets two checkers off, and leaves a reasonablysafe position. There are safer plays, but they don't have nearly the samegammon potential.
Chris Yep: 3/2(3)*, 1/0.
Blue has very little danger of losing. Instead he has to find the move that gives him the best chance of a gammon. If Blue is hit during the bearoff, White will be favored to save the gammon. Since the gammon figures to be a close call, Blue has several priorities in this position: (a) achieve a relatively safe position (to reduce the chance of leaving a future shot), (b) bear off checkers, (c) put White's second checker on the bar, (d) achieve a position which gives Blue a good chance of keeping White on the bar for awhile. The three moves which satisfy these conditions are 5/4 3/2* 2/0, 3/2(3)* 1/o, and 3/2* 2/o 1/o. The first of these moves, 5/4 3/2* 2/o, bears off one checker and leaves spares on 3 different points; on the other hand, it also leaves the gap on the 2 point. The last of these moves, 3/2* 2/o 1/o, bears off two checkers, but leaves the gap on the 2 point, and leaves spares on only the 1 and 5 points. Blue will probably have to break down to a 3-point board on his second successive roll. Compared to these two moves, I have a slight preference for 3/2(3)* 1/o, which leaves spares on 3 different points and moves the gap up to the 3 point; these two factors probably outweigh the extra checker borne off with 3/2* 2/o 1/o.
Summary: Our panel is nothing if not greedy for gammons. Rightly so,with White's board in such disarray.
Play Votes Score3/2*, 2/0, 1/0 7 1003/2(3)*, 1/0 2 705/4, 3/2*, 2/0 1 604/2(2)* 1 605/4, 3/2(3)* 0 405/2*, 3/2 0 405/4(2), 1/0(2) 0 401/0(4) 0 40
Problem 8
| 132 126 | White money game Blue |
Alan Alsop: 24/23, 4/1.
Although Blue has a 6 point prime he is somewhat stripped of builders. He can't escape the back men on this move, so his prime must breakup. White is trapped but has the flexibility and timing to point or move off the 13 point. With this mind I think a prudent move of safety the back men and wait.
Chuck Bower: 24/23, 4/1.
Another tough choice. White's position is very powerful. His checkers are in good position to extend the prime in both directions. 24/23 both gets Blue's second back checker in position to escape with a 6 and grabs the security of an anchor. 4/1 keeps Blue's best five point prime with the downside of burying a checker behind White's anchor. Even if White rolls a one, he will still be stuck behind the prime, which can't be said for any other prime-breaking move. Ugly, yes--maybe just ugly enough to win.
Steve Clark: 23/22, 4/1.
I am always reluctant to peel off the front of a prime but it looks likethe right move here. We will retain a 5 point prime with White not upto the edge. The obvious ace play is 23-22. I lack enthusiasm becausethis does leave White with a lot of good rolls.
In fact I am sufficiently dissatisfied as to take another look at thealternatives. 9-6, 9-8 is the best of the unpriming plays. But I wouldbe giving White a direct way out of my back court. I do not see this asan improvement.
I now notice that 4-1, 24-23 has more merit than I first thought. Itprovides fewer escaping numbers but is much safer. At the same time5's will play very well from the 9 point. Could this be better than myoriginal idea? Actually it might be but I am unconvinced. 4-1, 23-22is a more direct way to win, and I suppose I will stick with it.
Malcolm Davis: 23/22, 4/1.
Usually don't make these kind of plays - Usually don't even see them. However,this was the first one I saw, so why not? It might even be right.
Doug Doub: 9/8, 9/6.
As much as I would like to try the 'bananas split' playof 22-23, 4-1, just to say that I had done it once, it looks too crazy forme. I do not think that this position is such that we want to do anythingother than break our prime from the rear and hope to get a back man movingnext turn. The major virtue of the 'bananas split' is that is gives us achance to escape with 5's next turn. However, White will hit us with 55 orany 1,2,3,or 4, so the gains on 66 and 65 do not look sufficient to me tojustify the play.
George Klitsas: 9/8, 9/6.
I prefer 9/8 9/6, retaining a compact five-prime, to the more sophisticated 8/7 8/5, designed to be able to play awkward future 5's from the nine point (breaking it). Somehow compact primes work much better than broken ones and outweigh them in the long run even when distracting temporary considerations point to the opposite direction. Therefore, even when one does not know why this happens, one should follow this sound rule. Probable is what usually happens.
Laila Leonhardt: 7/6, 7/4.
6 point primes don't last forever, but Blue is still in the game. No reasonto allow White to sent another of Blues checkers back. The fancy playswitching to the ace point could be right in many positions, but not whenstuck behind a prime where you are likely to break yet another point nextturn.
Flexibility is the key. Blue needs to try to keep the 5-point prime. WithBlue owning the cube can afford the gamble of leaving the back checkerssplit. The sequences when Blue gets closed out, White may still end up beingunable to escape the prime.
Another move to consider is 23/22 7/4, but in spite of the duplication, muchto gammonish.Since this move is not on the list of options I can guess that majority ofpanelist will be voting for making the 23-point. But I'll stick by myinitial choice. 7/4 7/6
Rob Maier: 9/8, 9/6.
Since we are forced to break the prime, the first decision is whether or not to break it cleanly, or to play the ace on the other side of the board. If the blot on our side of the board survives, we will want to pick it up as soon as possible, so it seems reasonable to pick it up immediately, and let the other side of the board take care of itself. Breaking from the back has two things going for it. First, if White runs later in the game, we may be able to recreate the six prime. Second, the spares created give us the most pips to play with before another point must be broken, which may be important as we try to escape. There are no duplication issues to consider here, since White will not run even if they are able, unless of course it hits.
Snowie: 9/8, 9/6.
I have 13 checkers up front, and I'm making sure they are all there for aneventual attack. It would be a disaster if White escaped with a hit. My backmen really aren't in too much danger.
Kit Woolsey: 24/23, 9/6.
I belive getting both back checkers into escape range as well as making theanchor has to be right. After doing this, 9/6 which holds the solid 5-primeand puts an important spare on the six point seems right.
Chris Yep: 24/23, 4/1.
A somewhat deceiving problem. When I first studied the position, it seemed natural for Blue to break his prime in a natural way (from the back). However, on second glance it appears that Blue's prime is not as important as it initially seemed to be. White's 2 midpoint checkers and spares on his 5, 6, and 7 points represent a significant amount of timing. White will be content to sit on his 22-point anchor and attempt to extend his prime to a 5-prime, or with different dice rolls directly attack Blue's split back men. White's board is as strong as Blue's, White has a medium anchor at the edge of Blue's prime, Blue has a blot in his inner board, and White has plenty of spare pips to play with in the outfield should he get another checker sent/stuck behind Blue's 5-prime. Thus White has a good chance of successfully attacking Blue. Thus, it looks better for Blue to button up with 24/23. Even this is not so inflexible since it puts both checkers in position to escape with 6s. With the 5, I like 4/1 covering the hard-to-reach blot on the 1 point and preventing White from escaping in one turn. Next turn (if missed) Blue will have good diversification with 3s, 4s, and 5s to cover the 4 point (creating a 4-point board which will be useful if Blue later runs a back man and White attacks the remaining back man) and 6s to escape.
Summary: There was a fair amount of support for holding the back partof the blockade an breaking from the four point. However this approach oftencollapses fast. The more normal idea of retaining the better points andsome flexibility won out.
Play Votes Score9/8, 9/6 4 10024/23, 4/1 3 9023/22, 4/1 2 8024/23, 9/6 1 607/6, 7/4 1 6024/23, 8/5 0 4024/23, 7/4 0 408/7, 8/5 0 40
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8Alan Alsop B/24*, 13/10 13/7(2) 13/9, 13/7 22/18, 8/3* 20/16, 13/11 8/5, 6/4 3/2*, 2/0, 1/0 24/23, 4/1Chuck Bower B/24*, 13/12(2), 3/2 8/5(2), 6/3(2) 20/16*, 9/3* 22/18, 8/3* 20/16, 13/11 6/1 3/2(3)*, 1/0 24/23, 4/1Steve Clark B/24*, 13/12(2), 5/4 13/7(2) 13/9, 13/7 22/18, 8/3* 13/7 8/5, 6/4 3/2*, 2/0, 1/0 23/22, 4/1Malcolm Davis B/24*, 13/12(2), 5/4 13/7(2) 20/16*, 16/10 23/14 20/18, 13/9 8/5, 6/4 3/2*, 2/0, 1/0 23/22, 4/1Doug Doub B/24*, 8/7, 8/6 8/5(2), 6/3(2) 13/9, 13/7 23/14 20/16, 13/11 8/5, 6/4 3/2*, 2/0, 1/0 9/8, 9/6George Klitsas B/24*, 8/7, 8/6 8/5(2), 6/3(2) 20/16*, 16/10 23/14 13/7 8/5, 6/4 5/4, 3/2*, 2/0 9/8, 9/6Laila Leonhardt B/24*, 13/10 18/15(2), 10/7(2) 20/16*, 9/3* 8/3*, 7/3 13/7 8/3* 4/2(2)* 7/6 7/4Rob Maier B/24*, 13/12(2), 5/4 10/4(2) 20/16*, 16/10 23/14 20/16, 10/8 8/5, 6/4 3/2*, 2/0, 1/0 9/8, 9/6Snowie B/24*, 8/7, 8/6 13/7(2) 13/9, 13/7 23/14 20/16, 13/11 8/5, 6/4 3/2*, 2/0, 1/0 9/8, 9/6Kit Woolsey B/24*, 13/12(2), 3/2 10/7(2), 6/3(2) 20/16*, 16/10 22/18, 8/3* 13/7 8/5, 6/4 3/2*, 2/0, 1/0 24/23, 9/6Chris Yep B/24*, 8/7, 8/6 8/5(2), 6/3(2) 13/9, 13/7 22/18, 8/3* 20/18, 10/6 8/5, 6/4 3/2(3)*, 1/0 24/23, 4/1
