121
money game
Blue
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Problem 1
| 154 121 | White money game Blue |
Chuck Bower: 16/14, 13/10.
Why leave 15 shots when you can leave none? Well, the 23-pointgame is pretty effective when opp has to clear the 8-point. Blueneeds the 3-point and would really like the 7-point. This maybe the last chance to make the latter and the latter makes it easier to get the former! White's board isn'tthreatening so getting hit isn't all that bad. Of the plays whichleave the 7-point slotted, 16/14, 13/10 gets the back checkerup a few pips, makes sure all of White's hits leave direct returns,and leaves the numbers which don't enter after White's hit -- 3's and 6's -- ready to return hit on or cover the barpoint.
Neil Kazaross: 16/13, 7/5.
There are many possibilities for this roll and we need to askourselves how much risk are we willing to take to make the bar point and to preserve flexibility. I think plays which leave the bar slotted and added indirects in White's outerboard offer a bit too much counterplay. With White in bad shape, the real question is whether we should simply wimp out with 7/4, 16/14. Unfortunately, that leaves us with our some decisions next roll. I think we can afford to risk some non painful indirects to get a bit more flexibilty and 7/5, 16/13 looks just about correct to me. 7/5, 14/11 should also be very close, but I slightly prefer 7/5, 16/13.
George Klitsas: 16/14, 13/10.
The unusual 16/14 13/10 is by far the best play here - for two reasons, each of which would be sufficient in itself, in my opinion. Simply, after that play, Blue has more re-hitting potential in all cases, compared to other candidates. If hit from the bar on his bar point, Blue can re-hit and continue the fight with 3's and 6's, the numbers that do not enter. If hit on the midpoint, he can re-hit with aces and deuces. Blue must leave his bar point slotted in the first place, because the danger of a catastrophe is small (White's position is undeveloped) and if he makes the bar he will practically lock the game.
Snowie: 16/13, 7/5.
I probably have this game locked up, so there is no need for overkill.Leaving the bar point slotted is too dangerous. My play is the simplestto bring them home and win.
Marty Storer: 16/14, 7/4.
Blue has a big advantage. This weenie play gives plenty of chances tocome home safely, and maintains pressure on the open inner-board points.Blue should be unwilling to give White 10 numbers to hit on the 7 point,or even 7 numbers to hit on the 16 (after 14/11 7/5). Though White'sboard isn't in very good shape, he wouldn't mind a chance to attack.
Bob Stringer: 16/13, 7/5.
I'm so far ahead in the race, and White has such a miserable position(three checkers on his own 3 point), that I don't think the risk ofbeing hit makes it worth leaving the checker on the bar point. I canwin this game without the 5 point prime, so why horse around? Thatmeans 7/5 (the 5 being a better point for the extra checker than the4). 16/13 looks best for the 3 - it duplicates 2's and White has tobreak the midpoint to hit.
Casper van der Tak: 16/13, 7/5.
Even though White's position is not very threatening now I do not see a strong reason to leave a bunch of shots to cover the bar. Therefore, three plays with merit, all of them picking up the blot on the 7-point: 16/13 7/5, 16/14 7/4, 14/11 7/5. 16/14 7/4 leaves Blue stripped on the rear points, so that does not look to cool even though it leaves least shots. 16/13 7/5 plays with one blot, leaves 5 shots only (as opposed to 7 after 14/11 7/5) and creates a spare on the midpoint for future use. A mild form of paying now.
Kit Woolsey: 14/11, 7/5.
I don't think it is worth leaving the bar point slotted. If Whitedoes enter and hit, not only do I have a man sent back but suddenly Whitehas started my bar point. Of the plays which lift the checker,14/11, 7/5 looks best because it gives me a new outfield checkertrained on the bar point.
Chris Yep: 16/13, 7/5.
Though White has a weak board, Blue does not gain much by making the bar point. It looks better to avoid complications and just coast home to a win. 16/13 7/5 cleans up Blue's position while adding a spare to the mid and 5 points.
Summary: The panel definitely agreed that leaving the blot on thebar point was too risky. Given that, there were various opinions aboutjust how much risk to take in the outfield. It probably isn't a big deal.
Play Votes Score16/13, 7/5 5 10016/14, 13/10 2 7016/14, 7/4 1 6014/11, 7/5 1 6016/11 0 4016/13, 6/4 0 4014/11, 6/4 0 40
Problem 2
| 156 134 | White money game Blue |
Chuck Bower: 24/22, 8/3*.
Blue's biggest concern is the straggler. 24/22 gets in positionto leap with a 6. 8/3* is not only diversionary (important initself since the back checker will be under attack) but could gaina few bonus gammons. Some of White's return hits could be a bitawkward, although hopefully he misses.
Neil Kazaross: 24/22, 8/3*.
I simply cannot resist the obvious 24/22, 8/3x realizing that 16/9and 24/22 16/11 are good options. I think the straight forward brute force approach takes advantage of our 3 point board to win a bit more gammons.
George Klitsas: 24/22, 16/11.
For me, there are only two conceivable moves, namely 24/22 8/3* and 24/22 16/11. I really don't have an idea about which is the best. I will vote for the positional 24/22 16/11, strongly attracted by the duplication of 44 and the triplication (!) of 43 for White. The influence of the position of the cube is also a mystery for me here.
Snowie: 24/22, 16/11.
My main goal is to extricate the back checker. There is no need to exposeanother blot to a direct shot. White has only 11 checkers up front, sohe doesn't have the neccessary forces to carry out an attack.
Marty Storer: 16/9.
Similar theme as in the first problem: Magriel's safe-versus-boldcriteria favor safety. It isn't too urgent to play 24/22 for a directway out; White's threats to advance or extend the prime aren't huge.
Bob Stringer: 16/9.
I keep going back and forth on this one. Hitting is worth consideringto make it safer to move up with 24/22 in the hope of leaping out witha 6. However, hitting isn't necessary, since I have a good racinglead. If White doesn't immediately hit in return, I still have toworry about covering my 3 point. The important thing is to get thelast checker out of White's home board, and until I run the checker issafest on the ace point. 16/9 looks really bland, but in the end Ithink the burden's on White to come up with something.
Casper van der Tak: 24/22, 16/11.
I see a racing lead, a back checker, and a prime that needs to be jumped. I play 24/22. I need to find a 5. 8/3* leaves 13 shots, too much for taking away half the roll. 13/8 does not serve any purpose and leaves additional shots. 16/11 it is. 16/9 may be close, since it does not leave shots up front and prepares for a safer jump at a later stage in the game. But then White may have brought ammunition around, making stepping up more dangerous.
Kit Woolsey: 24/22, 8/3*.
I have the stronger inner board, but White has the better blockade.I don't want to let White play his full roll here, since bad thingsmay happen. Getting ready to escape the back checker is vital, andby hitting I prevent White from attacking efficiently as well as startinga new inner board point which I can use.
Chris Yep: 24/22, 16/11.
8/3* strips away Blue's last spare up front. Blitzing may not be good anyway since White has an advanced anchor and any checker that White hits will be sent back behind White's 4-prime. 24/22 16/11 looks thematic. It prepares the back man to escape next turn if not attacked. With the 5, 16/11 is better than 13/8 (not listed) since it exposes fewer blots. In addition some of White's hitting numbers (e.g. 4-3 and 4-4) are duplicated (4-3 to make the 18 point, 4-4 to quickly make the board).
Summary: In a difficult decision, the panel preferred the quietplay which advanced the back checker over the loose hit or the safest play.As far as I can tell, any of these approaches may be best.
Play Votes Score24/22, 16/11 4 10024/22, 8/3* 3 9016/9 2 8016/11, 13/11 0 4016/11, 8/6 0 4016/14, 8/3* 0 40
Problem 3
| 165 158 | White money game Blue |
Chuck Bower: 7/1*, 6/1.
There are several approaches here. The all-out blitz (7/1*, 6/1*)could easily be right but Blue is a bit short of checkers "in thezone". (Ilia Guzei tells me that 10 or more are prefered.) Makingthe 18-point is nice, but there isn't that much pressure for ananchor. The 3-pointis good here but could making the 8-point and bringing anotherbuilder down be better? I don't like the two-way play of makingthe 8-point and starting the opponent's barpoint. That gives Whitequite a few tempo hits from the bar. For me it's close between13/7, 13/8 and the PoH 1*(2), but the gammon chances are tootempting and White is so defenseless. Putting a second checker onthe rail is big. Even though I'd like more checkers in position, I'll go all-out for the blitz.
Neil Kazaross: 7/1*, 6/1.
Big numbers are made for blitzing and with 9 men in the zone I feelthat making the ace point is clearly correct. Gammons pay double and this play is the only one in this problem set I feel is clear !
George Klitsas: 7/1*, 6/1.
Blue's ammunition is between sufficient and insufficient for a blitz, but with a little luck, after 7/1* 6/1, Blue could succeed in making a closeout. Second best variation for Blue is the one where White anchors somewhere (2, 3 or 4 point game), but in the meantime Blue hits White's third blot and buys the time he needs in order to bring his position home and start taking off his checkers. Bots have changed our minds about committal plays like this one, unthincable by most experts in the past (I am curious to see what Snowie will have to tell us about this position) and I think that if another play [my second choice would be 24/18 13/8] is better, it can't be by far. If my choice (7/1* 6/1) is best as I think, it can be best by far.
Snowie: 7/1*, 6/1.
Two on the bar, a three point board for me, nicely distributed builders,and another checker in White's outer board to pick up along the way.Everything screams for blitz.
Marty Storer: 7/1*, 6/1.
There's no reason not to blitz away. Making the 1 point not only putstwo on the roof and gains a three-point board, with swarming buildersto back it up, but it gains time to shoot at White's outside blot.With two on the bar, White will have a very hard time bringing thatchecker to safety. Plays that make the 8 point give White too muchbreathing room. With the cube in the middle (for some odd reason) ina money game, Blue could consider something like 24/18 13/8, tryingfor an efficient double. (24/18 13/8 is also a very good ploy to getyour opponent to steam.) With White owning the cube, Blue's gammonscount, and the blitzing play is the best gammon try.
Bob Stringer: 7/1*, 6/1.
Put two on the bar against a three point board and White is reeling.Since I'm blitzing, it's just as well that I'm make the ace point. Itmeans that White has to enter a bit higher and bring his checkers thatmuch closer to my checkers which are attacking. No other playinterests me.
Casper van der Tak: 7/1*, 6/1.
Two on the bar against a three-point board. Three builders to continue the attack. Back checkers already split. Another target on White's 10-point. Gammons count. What other arguments do we need to point??
Kit Woolsey: 13/8, 13/7.
The blitz is tempting, but if I make the ace point and White getsan anchor my position will be a mess. I'm a little short on attackmaterial. I think it is better to just bring down the ammunition andlet my dice determine whether I should be playing a blitzing game or apriming game. Four in a row with many opportunities to make the fifthpart of the prime isn't bad.
Chris Yep: 7/1*, 6/1.
I definitely like 7/1* 6/1, though just a few years ago I would have thought 24/18 23/18 (or maybe 24/18 13/8) was pretty clear. Blue has 9 checkers in the attack zone. After pointing on White's head, Blue's 3 remaining offensive checkers are each on different points. On the other side of the board White has no board (so Blue is in no hurry to make a defensive anchor), White has an outfield blot, and Blue's back men are split (so that he has more chances to hit White's outfield blot or even to later make a defensive anchor if his attack stalls). All of these factors point toward blitzing with 7/1* 6/1.
Summary: A near unanimous vote for the blitz, with yours truly beingthe only holdout. I think I may have been influenced by my days of learningto play purely many years agon. In retrospect, I agree that Blue has enoughgoing for him to make the blitz profitable. It would be interesting tosee what adjustments in the position would make playing purely superior.
Play Votes Score7/1*, 6/1 8 10013/8, 13/7 1 6024/18, 23/18 0 4024/18, 13/8 0 409/3, 8/3 0 40
Problem 4
| 158 179 | White money game Blue |
Chuck Bower: 8/3.
I immediately reject any play which puts a checker on the 2-point.With four checkers back, effecient use of offensive side checkersbecomes doubly important. 24/20 is nice but the accompanying acesdon't feel right. Only two plays remain: simply covering the3-point or the pick-and-pass 13/9*/8. The latter doesn't seem toaccomplish much, with only a one point board and a blot there besides.Some general advice I've heard is "if you start the acepoint, finish it." That seems even more appropriate for other inner board points. I like8/3. Getting hit on the 8-point isn't particularly bad and it costsWhite the anchor, leaving blot(s) with a worse homeboard.
Neil Kazaross: 13/9*, 9/8.
Hmm..do bots know how to play from here ? Do humans ? Does anybody ? Idoubt it. Anyhow, when we hold our 11 point we don't have a huge need for our midpoint. We hold the enemy 5 point and playing 24/20, 24/23 looks natural but doesn't do all that much. I have a slight preference for simply hitting 13/9x/8. When in doubt, hit ! I also don't think making either the 2 or 3 point is correct here.13/9x/8..the midpoint is often overrated but racing isn't.
George Klitsas: 6/2, 3/2.
Conceding the midpoint is dubious at best. Making the two point (6/2 3/2) looks like the best move here, slightly better than 24/23 24/20. In this mutual holding game, there might be some hitting and it would be much better for Blue not to have blots in his inner board, if this happens. Blue would like to make his three point instead, but this is almost irrelevant, outweighed by the other factors.
Snowie: 6/2, 3/2.
There is no need to panic. First I need to tidy things up and make aninner board point or two. Then I will be prepared to hit some blots.I should have plenty of chances.
Marty Storer: 24/23, 24/20.
Blue doesn't need the 24 point. He needs the midpoint more, so hecan't afford to hit, giving up the midpoint and leaving two blots.If White hits in return, he gains chances to increase his controlof the outfield, which is very desirable. Blue doesn't want tocommit to such a deep point as his 2, nor does he want to tradehis 8 point for his 3. He can maintain all his outside pointswith 24/20 24/23, and that looks best.
Bob Stringer: 13/9*, 9/8.
This play looks awkward and doofus, but I'm sticking with it. I preferto play 24/20 (much too early to be thinking of a back game), but the1 doesn't play well in that case. Also, I don't want to leave too manyblots laying around, since that may help White consolidate.
Casper van der Tak: 6/2, 3/2.
Blue is behind in the race, so he'd like to catch-up by hitting. But hitting now 13/9*/8 leaves too many returns. Therefore, I make the 2-point and hope to get another crack at White's checker, noting that 11, 31, 51, 61, 42, 43, 63, 65 and 66 (16 shots) fail to bring White's checker to safety. Under these circumstances, preparing for a hit, even though with a move that is a bit anti-positional, seems worthwhile. If I do not get a chance to hit or I miss net turn I'll bring the checkers on the 24 into play.
Note that playing 24/23 may leave Blue with difficulties on 6s...
Kit Woolsey: 6/2, 3/2.
I'm just not ready to make a move toward winning the game just yet.White has my five point, and hitting costs me the midpoint for therest of the game as well as risking getting more checkers sent back.It looks best to simply make the two point and leave nothing. I'll getanother chance to hit something, and by then I will be better prepared.
Chris Yep: 24/23, 24/20.
Everything else is too committal in my opinion. This game figures to be a long game, so it pays to play positionally. For example, I believe it's too early to make the 2 point (or to dump a checker there with 24/20 3/2). 13/9* breaks the midpoint, while 8/3 breaks the 8 point. Instead I believe Blue does best to play quietly with 24/23 24/20. This adds a spare to the 20 point, giving Blue better outfield coverage (either to hit from the 20 point or to spring the spare into the outfield).
Summary: Several possibilities, but the most popular choice wasto firm things up for now and hit later. Even though the two point isa bit deep, this seems to be the thematic approach for this position.
Play Votes Score6/2, 3/2 4 10024/23, 24/20 2 8013/9*, 9/8 2 808/3 1 6024/20, 3/2 0 4024/23, 13/9* 0 40
Problem 5
| 152 174 | White money game Blue |
Chuck Bower: 23/20, 18/13.
It is commonly believed that the 18-point and 20-point don't go welltogether. About the best that can be said is that you get yourchoice of which one to break. However, the toughest problems are thosewhere the exceptions to the rules take precedence. Is this one ofthose? The alternatives aren't that attractive. I was very temptedto lift both blots with 23/20, 18/13, but points are better thanbuilders. I'll bite. 23/18. 6/3 unstacks the heavy point and leavesfour fewer shots. 13/10 strips the midoint and shows favoritism tothe 18-point. I think it's too early for that. 6/3 is my choice.
Neil Kazaross: 23/20, 18/13.
The simple 23/20, 18/13 seems somewhat better than making the 3 pointand the plays that make two anchors (an often overrated position) leave a direct shot and we don't have the timing to hold both the 20 and 18 points for too long. I'll play 23/20, 18/13, but would consider something more complicated vs a weaker player.
George Klitsas: 23/20, 18/13.
I expect 23/20 18/13 to be the unanimous choice here and I will be much surprised otherwise. Making the 18 point leads only to a cramped position (plus a blot) for Blue with two adjacent points that do not cooperate well.
Snowie: 23/20, 18/13.
This play tidies things up nicely and prepares for the future.My position will be comfortable to play with at least one spare onevery point. I can still win the race, and I can still hit a shotlater on. Other plays risk having something bad happen with no greatupside.
Marty Storer: 23/18, 6/3.
Some consider a high double anchor to be an inefficient use ofcheckers, but it's not bad here. The 18 point is far better thannothing. It restricts White's blocking options and outer-boardmovement, and Blue can break it later if he starts running outof playability. For the 3, I like 6/3 a touch better than 13/10.I think it's better to unstack the 6 point, start building theboard, and leave a spare on the midpoint. 13/10 gives White 16hitting numbers versus 12 after 6/3, with a fair swing on White'sawkward 54. If White misses, he can anchor or run, so 13/10doesn't have a very big upside.
Bob Stringer: 8/3, 6/3.
A mediocre roll. Make the best of it by making a solid asset.
Casper van der Tak: 23/20, 18/13.
Safe, and brings the checkers into play. Making the three-point is the only alternative that I see, but that leaves a bunch of shots, some of which are quite costly, and it also strips the 8. Playing safe seems clear.
Kit Woolsey: 23/20, 18/13.
I wouldn't mind making the anchor on White's bar point, but then what doI do for a three? Making the three point leaves two checkers open tobe attacked. My play solidifies my position and will make my future moveseasier. It looks like a racing play and I am behind in the race, but thereis plenty of contact to come and I will have time to build up my board.
Chris Yep: 8/3, 6/3.
I don't believe it's worth stripping the midpoint to play 23/18 13/10. Though the second anchor is nice, Blue already has an advanced anchor. Since White only has a 2-point board, it's not worth leaving a direct shot in the outfield to make a second advanced anchor. Similarly I don't like 23/18 6/3 and 23/20 13/8. That leaves 23/20 18/13 and 8/3 6/3 as the main candidates in my mind. It's a close call: 23/20 18/13 cleans up Blue's position (he is currently outboarded), while 8/3 6/3 unstacks the 6 point (though it strips the 8 point) and makes a decent inner board point. Overall I have a slight preference for 8/3 6/3.
Summary: Our panel has learned the importance of safety and flexibility. The winningplay works on both of these themes.
Play Votes Score23/20, 18/13 6 1008/3, 6/3 2 7023/18, 6/3 1 6023/18, 13/10 0 4023/20, 13/8 0 40
Problem 6
| 139 147 | White money game Blue |
Chuck Bower: 13/4*.
Toughest problem of the set for me because there are so many decentlooking moves. From White's viewpoint, he sure was hoping Bluewould leave his back checkers alone. Even though a PoH would havebeen much stronger, I still think the passive plays give Whitemore than he deserves. I'm going to hit one of those blots.13/4* is more thematic -- get that checker away from the edge. Itleaves 20 shots and three blots, and not that many clean covers.I won't be surprised if 13/7, 6/3* wins the vote. It has a lotof duplication (only 14 return shots, even though three blots) andleaves covers from both the 7-point and 6-point. 15/9, 6/3* startsthe back of the prime, but also leaves 20 shots. One bad thing about all the 6/3* plays is that White simply rolling a 4 from the bar is almost as good as hitting. I'm really torn between these three hitting plays. In the end I'll go with the thematic play of knocking Blue back from the edge, knowing that I could be losing a lot of ground if things go White's way.
Neil Kazaross: 13/4*.
The straightforward 13/4x seems to me to have the most bang for thebuck here, noting some duplication of 3's and 1's and that some entering 5's and 6's don't play so well. More passive alternatives don't win enough gammons and 15/9, 6/3 hits the "wrong" checker.
George Klitsas: 15/6.
The "obvious" 15/6 is my choice. The sophisticated 21/18 21/15 leaves the initiative to White without a good reason (as being ahead in the race, for example). Hitting inside looks like the wrong idea in all cases.
Snowie: 13/4*.
My four point is the point we both want the most, so let's go after it.This play may seem unnecessarily risky, but it really isn't. All ofWhite's non-hitting fives and sixes will play awfully, and even if Whtiedoes hit something he doesn't have much of a board to for me to worryabout. The potential gains from this hit outweigh the losses.
Marty Storer: 13/4*.
Pow! Blast White off the edge of the prime. Safe versus bold,yet again. Blue has an anchor, boards are equal strength andnot well developed yet, and Blue and is behind in the race.Blue's four-prime is a key feature of his position. It's verystrong, and it's worth taking some chances to try to attackand extend it.
Bob Stringer: 13/4*.
With a good anchor and a four prime against two advanced blots, my eyeis immediately drawn to a hitting play. 13/7, 6/3* leaves two manyblots, and 21/15, 6/3* looks like it could make my position a littleinflexible - not to mention the fact that it's nice to keep an anchorto fall back on while I'm attacking. That leaves 13/4,* which putsWhite in big trouble if he doesn't hit or anchor up.
Casper van der Tak: 21/18, 21/15.
This, in contrast, is very unclear to me. I can hit with 13/4*, attacking at the edge of the prime, which is a thematic thing to do. But that leaves a bunch of blots and shots. I can play 15/9 6/3* if I do not want to leave too many blots and keep the anchor, but that hits on the wrong point. I can play 21/15 6/3*, but that leaves the anchor while behind in the race, and attacks the wrong blot. And I can play 21/15 21/18, which leaves the anchor while behind in the race, does not hit at all, and makes it easy for White to attack.In the end I chose 21/15 21/18 because:
- Although Blue is behind in the race, he is not far behind, so getting hit up-front is costly;
- Making the 15 gives great control over the outfield, making it more difficult for White to escape from behind the prime to safety
- Although the play leaves many shots, most of these shots are not very comfortable for White. Apart from return hits that Blue may hit, 1s could have been used to anchor, 6s to escape, and 2s break the 9-point
- A last consideration is that 21/15 21/18 probably wins most games for Blue. Therefore, the play reduces as much as possible the value of cube-ownership to White.
Kit Woolsey: 21/18, 21/15.
I don't want to be stuck on White's four point facing the made eightand nine points. This is a great opportunity for me to firm up my outfieldcontrol so it will be very difficult for White to escape his back checkers.The blot left on White's bar point isn't in too much jeopardy, and White'smen are awkwardly placed for an attack.
Chris Yep: 13/4*.
Blue trails in the race. Blue has an advanced anchor. White has a weak 2-point board (Blue is in little danger of being trapped). Blue has a solid 4-prime. All of Blue's back men are connected, while White has a stripped midpoint. All of these factors indicate to me that Blue should play purely, hitting loose with 13/4*. Although it leaves 2 outfield blots, note that some of White's 1s and 3s (to hit from the midpoint) are duplicated (he needs them to enter). Also White's midpoint is stripped so Blue will have return shots in the outfield (Blue's back men are all connected) if White hits there.
Summary: The majority of the panel was willing to abandon the midpoint and fight forthe four point. I'm not so sure about that approach. It seems as thoughthere is a serious danger of Blue's army being divided into two if Whitehits back. Outfield control looks very important here.
Play Votes Score13/4* 6 10021/18, 21/15 2 7015/6 1 6021/15, 6/3* 0 4015/9, 6/3* 0 4013/7, 6/3* 0 40
Problem 7
| 89 121 | White money game Blue |
Chuck Bower: 6/1, 5/1.
The first thing I've decided is that I want to keep *two* checkers onthe 22-point. Not only does White get some nice PoH and P&P playsif I leave one there but without either his 4- or 5-point I canhassle him for a long time by just camping there. The next decisionis whether or not to stay on the 18-point. In general I thinkBlue gets more shots by having that 3rd checker back, and gettingit hit adds some needed timing. I can always move it later ifthings get tight on the homeside. Now the final decision is whetherto just make the acepoint or start two inner board points. Sincesome of Blue's hitting vig comes as combo shots from the bar, havingtwo inner board blots, even for only this next roll, may be overdoingit. Note that Blue owns the cube so a simple hit + fan should beenough to win the game. Owning a closed board would be better, butisn't necessary. I'm making the acepoint, again.
Neil Kazaross: 6/1, 5/1.
I think simply making our ace point is best here with 18/13, 7/3 aclose 2nd. 18/9 is certainly plausable but relieves some pressure on White. I don't feel slotting two inner board points is needed here.
George Klitsas: 6/1, 5/1.
One of those rare positions that happen once in a lifetime and need pencil, paper and, above all, much time in order to obtain a rough idea (preferably a bot in our days - with their "brute force" they outperform easily even the best players in this kind of position). At the table, I would be reluctant to break the anchor on White's 3 point, even if that makes the bar point. I will remain anchored hoping for late shots, if everything else fails. I will also remain on the 18 point, for the moment, since this checker looks more of an asset (controlling the outfield) than a liability (if hit there, I will have only indirect return hits from the bar). Shuffling the checkers in my inner board is a problem in itself and I decide to make immediately a five point board (6/1 5/1), despite the hole left on my three point. Action is going to begin probably next roll and positional moves (like 7/3 6/1, leaving two inner blots) can easily backfire and are to be avoided.
Snowie: 18/13, 7/3.
I don't want to make it too easy for White to break off the midpoint, andI want to make my three point. Staying on White's bar point is a bittoo risky. My play keeps the pressure on with minimal risk, and startsthe point I need to make.
Marty Storer: 6/1, 5/1.
Making an instant five-point board in order to go for all themarbles right now, in case White elects to hit, or has to.There are only a few rolls that force White's hand (63, 53, 21).In any case Blue should keep the 22 point for greatest long-termshot equity. Then leaving the blot on the 18 point gives maximumcoverage of the outfield.
Bob Stringer: 6/1, 5/1.
I can't win without hitting, so I have to wait for White to come tome. Making the ace point does two good things: it makes my board morefearsome, and it does the best job of preserving my timing.
Casper van der Tak: 18/13, 7/3.
I truly do not know about this one. Playing 22/18 seems a bit anti-thematic, and leaves Blue a bit vulnerable to attack. Making the ace makes the encore difficult. So I played 18/13 7/3, which leaves plenty of contact and prepares to build the strongest possible board.
Kit Woolsey: 18/9.
I think that staying on the 18 point gives White more good rolls than badrolls, since his sixes and aces are otherwise awkward. I figure to get plentyof both indirect and direct shots simply by sitting on the three point,and I can use my other 13 checkers to make my own three point and have theboard I want when I hit a shot. The one thing I don't want is to getstuck on the bar at the wrong time.
Chris Yep: 7/3, 6/1.
This is a difficult problem since so many of the choices are similar. My choice is to stay back, keeping the maximum contact. Between 7/3 6/1 and 6/1 5/1, I like 7/3 6/1 since it leaves Blue with a more flexible position. White will probably not leave a shot next turn, so Blue has time to make up his board next turn while waiting for a shot.
Summary: The ace point? Yuck! How is Blue planning on containinga hit checker without making his three point? I don't like the majoritychoice here at all, even though it does keep maximum contact.
Play Votes Score6/1, 5/1 5 10018/13, 7/3 2 7018/9 1 607/3, 6/1 1 6022/18, 7/2 0 4022/18, 6/1 0 4018/13, 5/1 0 4018/14, 6/1 0 40
Problem 8
| 154 139 | White money game Blue |
Chuck Bower: 8/4*, 4/3.
Another mutual holding game? Not quite because only Blue has anadvanced anchor. As with problem 6, I don't think leaving Whitealone is right. Still, I'd like to maintain the nice race lead.8/4*, 4/3 is the only move that allows me to do both.
Neil Kazaross: 8/4*, 4/3.
White's 5 point and our racing lead must be considered and respected.I prefer the wimpy 8/4x/3 here noting that my builder on the 3 point can still be used to attack deeper in my home board. Alternatives which leave direct shots risk a bit too much, IMHO, noting that we are somewhat short of material to attack.
George Klitsas: 8/4*, 4/3.
I am sure that Blue must attack on the 4 point (and NOT on the two, with 9/8 6/2*). Given that, I have a strong preference for lifting the blot. I could be wrong, of course, but the factors that sway me in lifting the blot are Blue's lack of ammunition (White might miss [20 numbers], and still Blue might not cover), Blue's second blot in case of things going badly and the fact that Blue can bring this position home even with the temporary missing of the four point.
Snowie: 8/4*, 4/3.
Hitting is a must, but this is definitely not the time to take anyunnecessary chances. Putting the third checker on the three point maylook ugly, but if that checker winds up on the bar it will be a lotuglier.
Marty Storer: 8/4*, 4/3.
Another weenie capitulation to Magriel's criteria. White hasno anchor yet, so the third checker on the 3 point may not betoo much of a disadvantage; it may serve as an attacker. IfBlue hits loose on the 4 point and White hits back, that'stoo huge a swing for the likes of me.
Bob Stringer: 8/4*, 4/3.
Crummy roll. 13/8 is worth considering since it makes another point,but hitting is more active. I have the racing lead and spreading blotsaround is a good way to let White back into the game. Therefore, hitto keep him off balance, and pick up the blot to keep the solidadvantage.
Casper van der Tak: 8/4*, 4/3.
This puts White on the bar, and leaves the least return shots while ahead in the race. Got to be right. Only alternative that I see is 13/8 which makes a useful point but leaves a bunch of shots.
Kit Woolsey: 8/4*, 4/3.
Hitting on the four point is a must. I can't afford to give White achance to make that point. After hitting, I believe it is correctto lift. I lose so much if I am hit back, and I don't need my fourpoint to win the game. The spare checker on the three point isn'tcompletely out of play -- it can be used to attack.
Chris Yep: 8/4*, 4/3.
8/4*/3 looks clear to me, though a few years ago I would have routinely hit and stayed on the 4 point. 4/3 is the best use of the ace since a spare on the 3 point is still reasonably in play (it still bears on the 1 and 2 points). Since White has made the 5 point, Blue loses a significant amount when he is hit back. Blue can continue to blitz if White rolls poorly next turn, but it's best to be patient with 8/4*/3. For an additional discussion of this type of problem, see problem 7 (page 14) in Norm Wiggins' "Boards, Blots, and Double Shots."
Summary: A unanimous vote for the safe pick and pass play. I thinkthat says it all in this position. Blue loses too much when he is hit back.
Play Votes Score8/4*, 4/3 9 10013/8 0 409/4* 0 409/8, 6/2* 0 408/4*, 6/5 0 408/4*, 5/4 0 40
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8Chuck Bower 16/14, 13/10 24/22, 8/3* 7/1*, 6/1 8/3 23/20, 18/13 13/4* 6/1, 5/1 8/4*, 4/3Neil Kazaross 16/13, 7/5 24/22, 8/3* 7/1*, 6/1 13/9*, 9/8 23/20, 18/13 13/4* 6/1, 5/1 8/4*, 4/3George Klitsas 16/14, 13/10 24/22, 16/11 7/1*, 6/1 6/2, 3/2 23/20, 18/13 15/6 6/1, 5/1 8/4*, 4/3Snowie 16/13, 7/5 24/22, 16/11 7/1*, 6/1 6/2, 3/2 23/20, 18/13 13/4* 18/13, 7/3 8/4*, 4/3Marty Storer 16/14, 7/4 16/9 7/1*, 6/1 24/23, 24/20 23/18, 6/3 13/4* 6/1, 5/1 8/4*, 4/3Bob Stringer 16/13, 7/5 16/9 7/1*, 6/1 13/9*, 9/8 8/3, 6/3 13/4* 6/1, 5/1 8/4*, 4/3Casper van der Tak 16/13, 7/5 24/22, 16/11 7/1*, 6/1 6/2, 3/2 23/20, 18/13 21/18, 21/15 18/13, 7/3 8/4*, 4/3Kit Woolsey 14/11, 7/5 24/22, 8/3* 13/8, 13/7 6/2, 3/2 23/20, 18/13 21/18, 21/15 18/9 8/4*, 4/3Chris Yep 16/13, 7/5 24/22, 16/11 7/1*, 6/1 24/23, 24/20 8/3, 6/3 13/4* 7/3, 6/1 8/4*, 4/3
